#Research & Development

2024-06-13

Synthetic leather made from recyclable and bio-based PBS

Pure PBS artificial leather. Photo: DITF 2024

A new type of pure synthetic leather meets the high requirements of the European Ecodesign Regulation. Made from a bio-based plastic, it is biodegradable and meets the requirements for a closed recycling process.

Many synthetic leathers consist of a textile substrate to which a polymer layer is applied. The polymer layer usually consists of an adhesive layer and a top layer, which is usually embossed. The textile backing and the top coat are usually completely different materials. Woven, knitted, or nonwoven fabrics made of PET, PET/cotton, or polyamide are often used as textile substrates. PVC and various polyurethanes are commonly used for coatings. The use of these established composite materials does not meet today's sustainability criteria. Recycling them by type is very costly or even impossible. They are not biodegradable. The search for alternative materials for the production of artificial leather is therefore urgent. In 2022, the EU adopted the Sustainable Products Initiative (SPI) ("Green Deal"). It includes an eco-design regulation that considers a product's life cycle in the conservation of resources. For textile and product design, this means incorporating closing the loop or end-of-life into product development.

In an AiF project carried out in close cooperation between the DITF and the Freiberg Institute gGmbH (FILK), it has now been possible to develop a synthetic leather in which both the fiber material and the coating polymer are identical. The varietal purity is a prerequisite for an industrial recycling concept.

The aliphatic polyester polybutylene succinate (PBS) was recommended as the base material because of its properties. PBS can be produced from biogenic sources and is now available on the market in several grades and in large quantities. Its biodegradability has been demonstrated in tests. The material can be processed thermoplastically. This applies to both the fiber material and the coating. Subsequent product recycling is facilitated by the thermoplastic properties.

In order to realize a successful primary spinning process and to obtain PBS filaments with good textile mechanical properties, process adjustments had to be made in the cooling shaft at the DITF. In the end, it was possible to spin POY yarns at relatively high speeds of up to 3,000 m/min, which had a tenacity of just under 30 cN/tex when stretched. The yarns could be easily processed into pure PBS fabrics. These in turn were used at FILK as a textile base substrate for the subsequent extrusion coating, where PBS was also used as a thermoplastic.

With optimized production steps, PBS composite materials with the typical structure of artificial leather could be produced. Purity and biodegradability fulfill the requirements for a closed recycling process.

DITF send a signal for climate protection

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) have successfully implemented extensive investments in photovoltaic systems at their site in Denkendorf. The systems installed on the roofs of the buildings and covered parking lots have a total installed capacity of 840 kilowatt peak (kWp). The DITF invested 1.6 million euros in this with the support of the state of Baden-Württemberg. The system was ceremonially put into operation on September 17, 2025.

4.2 million Euros for research into textile recycling

Around the world, used textiles are still rarely recycled and pile up into huge mountains of waste. A recent study by the Boston Consulting Group (BCG) drew attention to this problem. However, the low recycling rate is also due to the fact that only a small percentage of used textiles are actually suitable for recycling into high-quality materials and for demanding applications. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are addressing this problem with their research.

Denkendorf fiber chart revised

A companion during studies and for practical use in the workplace: generations of textile experts have used the Denkendorf Fiber Chart to keep track of all the important characteristic values of textile raw materials. Following the first two editions in the 1970s and 1980s, Denkendorf scientists have comprehensively revised the Fiber Chart. The third edition is now available in digital form for the first time.

Carbowave: Energy efficiency in carbon fiber production

A new technology uses microwaves and plasma heating to produce carbon fibers in an energy-efficient manner. This means high-strength composite materials can be produced more cheaply and efficiently. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) are part of the Carbowave research consortium, which aims to improve and commercialize microwave and plasma-induced carbonization.

Closing the Loop in the Textile Industry: Value Creation in the State of Brandenburg

How can the state of Brandenburg benefit from a circular textile industry? This question is addressed in the new policy paper "Closing the loop in the textile industry: Value creation in the state of Brandenburg." Based on the „TexPHB“ feasibility study funded by the Brandenburg Ministry of Climate Protection, it shows how textile waste can be integrated into new value chains.

Better, faster, bio-based: Functional new Plastic alternatives

How can new bio-based and biohybrid materials with improved features be developed faster? Six Fraunhofer institutes are jointly exploring this question in the SUBI²MA flagship project, using an innovative bio-based polyamide developed by Fraunhofer researchers as a model. Its specific properties make it a promising alternative to fossil-based plastics.

A smarter way to verified Chemical Compliance

Hohenstein and GoBlu Drive Innovation in Sustainable Supply Chain Management As regulatory demands, customer expectations, and sustainability goals continue to grow, the ability to manage chemical compliance and data across complex supply chains has become critical. Hohenstein and The BHive® by GoBlu are initiating a strategic partnership to enhance chemical management in the textile sector. The collaboration delivers more than just a service – it provides an integrated, future-ready solution for brands, manufacturers and suppliers seeking trusted chemical management and credible sustainability.

Rieter reports stable order backlog and strategic progress – outlook for 2025 adjusted

In its Investor Update 2025, Rieter announced an order intake of CHF 203.9 million in the third quarter and CHF 559.3 million after nine months, reflecting a continued cautious investment climate in the textile machinery sector. Sales totaled CHF 121.5 million in the third quarter and CHF 457.7 million for the first nine months of the year, while the order backlog stood at around CHF 590 million as of September 30, 2025.