#Research & Development

2026-02-24

Fabolose: Fabricating vegan and circular leather alternatives from bio-tech-derived cellulose

Bacterial cellulose film produced by Sumatrix. © 2026 Photo: Source: Sumatrix Biotech (CC BY-NC 4.0)

Fabulose is an EU funded project coordinated by the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF). Its consortium consists of leading research institutes, biotech innovators, and industry stakeholders who aim to create high-performance, biobased and recyclable leather-like fabrics, using efficient biotech production routes for bacterial cellulose, cyanophycin and bacterial pigments

Current leather alternatives are either made from petrol-based plastics and non-recyclable, or they are (partly) biobased, but difficult to scale up and recycle. The project, supported by the Circular Bio-based Europe Joint Undertaking (CBE JU), is investigating how animal-based materials can be replaced by environmentally friendly alternatives in industries such as automotive, fashion, and upholstered furniture.

Fabulose uses advanced fermentation techniques, utilizes waste streams as feedstocks, and optimizes processes with the assistace of AI. This enables the environmentally-friendly and efficient production of bacterial cellulose, cyanophycin and pigments. These bio-based materials are combined in a coating formulation that replicates the durability and aesthetics of traditional leather. DITF’s HighPerCell® technology allows for re-spinning of bacterial cellulose to filaments to create recycled textile backings that offer high tensile strength without toxic agents. Instead of processing individual batches, the technology also allows to implement a roll-to-roll production process, thereby simplifying future scale-up to cost-effective mass production.

In addition, market requirements have been collected to select optimal material characteristics, while eco-design and Safe-by-design principles help to assess potential risks and ensure alignment with the safety and sustainability objectives. A digital twin framework will include key process parameters for optimisation and monitoring of material performances.

Infographic of Fabulose © 2026 Source: Fabulose project

Summary of the key project innovations:

Using fermentation products to enable fast and cost-effective production of raw materials

Grow micro-organisms on waste feedstocks and CO₂ to reduce production costs and environmental impact

Re-spinning bacterial cellulose to filaments to create recyclable, consistent and high-quality fabrics

Enabling production of cyanophycin to create durable coatings and finishing

Implementing roll-to-roll production process to simplify future scale-up

Project partners

The Fabulose project has a duration of 3,5 years and a budget of ca. 3,5 M euro.

The consortium includes 10 partners from 6 European countries, spanning the entire value chain, from research to real-world applications:

German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) (Germany), Next Technology Tecnotessile Societa Nazionale (Italy), University of Maribor (Slovenia), Sumatrix Biotech (Turkey), VTL GmbH (Austria), Novis GmbH (Germany), Melina Bucher (Germany), Benecke-Kaliko GmbH (Germany), Konrad Hornschuch GmbH (Germany), University of Aveiro (Portugal), Sumatrix Biotech, and Steinbeis 2i GmbH (Germany).

ALADIN paves the way for circular and demand-driven textile production in Europe

Textile production can be organized sustainably by utilizing short supply chains and preventing overproduction. This can already be achieved today by intelligently connecting and efficiently utilizing existing infrastructure. At the same time, production becomes circular when innovative technologies and materials are used that enable high-quality recycling. The ALADIN research project, launched in May 2026 and co-funded with five million euros under the EU Horizon Europe program, is creating the conditions for this.

Textile climate control system in workwear – exhibition at the 2026 SME Innovation Day!

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Stylish design made from sustainable materials – two DITF research projects receive Techtextil Innovation Awards

Materials made from domestic, renewable raw materials reduce CO₂ emissions, prevent microplastics from entering the environment, and close the material cycle. The German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are developing nature-based alternatives to synthetically produced and predominantly petroleum-based materials. Two research projects have received a prestigious Techtextil Innovation Award. NUO Flexholz and the lignin-coated material FormLig demonstrate that sustainable concepts can meet high standards of functionality and design. Both projects were carried out in close collaboration with industry.

Meadow Grove Research joins ITMF as Corporate Member

Meadow Grove Research is a commodity research firm specializing in supply, demand, and trade analysis in cotton and other soft commodities. Providing clarity to the complex nature of the global fiber supply chain is one of its most formidable services. The firm thrives on customer engagement and providing the best framework for critical decisions.

TERIS reaches milestone: Fraunhofer consortium develops new standards for tire analysis

In the “TERIS” project, the Fraunhofer institutes ICT, IGD, and IWM—led by the Fraunhofer Institute for Structural Durability and System Reliability LBF—have reached a decisive milestone. For the first time, the teams aim to generate, analyse, and predict tire wear in the laboratory in a standardized and practical manner. As part of this milestone, results are now available on reference abrasion, particle analysis, tribological models, AI-based surface analysis, a test bench concept, and methods for accelerated aging and VOC detection. The tire industry, testing services, and environmental agencies will in future benefit from reliable, rapid laboratory procedures for emissions assessment.

Geotextiles made from recycled materials: GREEN leads the way into the industry

For the industry, recycled materials are creating new opportunities in geotextile production. In the GREEN project, the Fraunhofer Cluster of Excellence Circular Plastics Economy CCPE demonstrates that recycled polypro-pylene (PP), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and high-density polyeth-ylene (HDPE) can be processed into nonwovens, fibers, and membranes that meet industrial requirements. This creates opportunities for use in existing production lines and new value chains in the geotextile market.

2026 general meeting of the Friends and Supporters of RWTH Aachen at ITA

The Friends and Supporters of RWTH Aachen e. V. (proRWTH) looked back on a successful year of support at their 2026 general meeting. The meeting took place at Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen and was combined with a joint session of the Executive Board and the Administrative Board. Before the general meeting began, participants were given a guided tour of ITA, providing them with fascinating insights into current research and development topics in textile engineering.

Rieter sees Barmag integration on track as orders and sales rise

The first half of 2026 was shaped by the successful completion of the largest acquisition in Rieter’s history. The Man-Made Fiber Division enables entry into the growth segment of man-made fibers and sustainably strengthens Rieter’s market position in the Asia region. The expanded Group is now the world’s leading system supplier for the processing of natural and man-made fibers. In the first half of the year, initial cost savings in material costs and operating expenses have already been realized. The targeted synergies are expected to amount to at least CHF 20 million by the end of the 2028 financial year. Due to the completion of the acquisition on February 2, 2026, the first half of the year for the Man-Made Fiber Division only amounts to five months.