#Research & Development

2025-08-06

Kendyr as a climate-friendly cotton alternative: STFI explores new value chains for salinised land in Central Asia

In large parts of Central Asia, decades of cotton irrigation have led to severe soil salinisation, with serious consequences for soil fertility and the future of cotton cultivation. An international research consortium, including the Saxon Textile Research Institute (STFI), has therefore investigated the potential of alternative fibre plants. The focus was on Apocynum spp. (kendyr), a bast fibre plant that can thrive on saline soils. The aim: to restore the agricultural use of former cotton fields and establish new textile value chains in the region.

Apocynum ssp. (kendyr) wild population © 2025 STFI

From wild growth to textile process chain

During the project period, only wild-harvested kendyr stalks were available. These were harvested locally and mechanically opened in Germany. The fibres were almost completely freed from shives, shortened to cotton staple length, and degummed to achieve a fineness of 40?dtex. Subsequent carding reduced the fineness to 5.6?dtex—comparable to Chinese hemp and closer to cotton than any other regionally available bast fibre. Kendyr also has a natural, slightly rust-red colour, similar to colour-grown cotton.

The refined fibre was successfully spun at production scale into a 30?tex (Nm?34) ring yarn blended with 70% cotton and processed into lightweight knitted fabrics (110–140?g/m²).

Research and industry partners

In addition to STFI, project partners included Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg, the Leibniz Institute for Agricultural Engineering and Bioeconomy (ATB), HANFFASER Uckermark eG, the hessnatur Foundation, Sachsen-Leinen e.V., and international partners from Central Asia.

Ring yarn 70730 / CO/Kendyr 30 tex (Nm 34) © 2025 STFI

STFI highlights textile circular economy and alternative fibres at INDEX™ 2026

From 19 to 22 May 2026, INDEX will invite visitors to Lake Geneva for the world's leading nonwovens trade fair. The Centre of Excellence in Nonwovens at the Sächsisches Textilforschung- sinstitut e.V. (STFI) will be in attendance to present the latest developments in nonwovens research. In the field of the textile circular economy, the STFI will present acoustically effective nonwovens made from chemical recycling residues. The range also includes innovations aimed at replacing conventional raw materials, such as the biobased and biodegradable polymer polybutylene succinate (PBS) and Kendyr as an alternative to cotton.

Regional hemp bast for lightweight construction profiles

The cultivation of fibre hemp for the production of ropes and clothing has a long tradition in Saxony. Due to its excellent fibre properties, it is also suitable as a renewable raw material for reinforcement in fibre composites. At the STFI and IWU in Chemnitz, the CannaPul project is cur- rently investigating how a regional value chain for hemp-based lightweight construction profiles can be established. To this end, the technical processing of hemp fibres into continuous fibre strands and their embedding in a suitable bio-based matrix are being investigated.

STFI presents concepts for the textile circular economy and solutions for a healthy and safe life at Techtextil

Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. (STFI) has been supporting companies in developing marketable innovations for over 30 years. With a clear focus on sustainability, the environment, health and protection, the STFI offers future-oriented research, textile testing for tailor-made solutions and certification of per- sonal protective equipment. At Techtextil 2026, the institute will present ideas for the textile circular econ- omy and showcase solutions for healthy and safe living.

Outdoor Industry Association completes Clean Heat CoLab initiative

The Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) has completed its multi-year Clean Heat CoLab initiative, bringing together outdoor brands and technology experts to accelerate the adoption of electrified process heating in textile manufacturing. The collaboration focused on reducing emissions from thermal processes such as dyeing, washing and finishing, which remain among the most carbon-intensive stages of textile production.

Europe is committed to recycling end-of-life wind turbine blades

Starting in 2026, Europe’s wind energy industry has committed itself to ensuring that wind turbine blades do not end up in landfills once they reach the end of their service life. The EU-funded research project REWIND is exploring ways to reuse this composite waste. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are one of 13 project partners from seven countries.

ADD-ITC 2026 publishes preliminary conference program

The organizers of the Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference (ADD-ITC) 2026 have released the preliminary program for this year's event, which will take place on November 26–27, 2026, at the International Congress Center Dresden. The conference is expected to attract between 500 and 700 participants from industry, research, and academia.

Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris opens with focus on AI, circularity and new sourcing regions

More than 1,000 exhibitors from around the world are gathering at Paris-Le Bourget as Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris opens its doors from August 31 to September 2. With around 500 textile manufacturers and a similar number of apparel and accessories suppliers, the trade fair reflects the ongoing transformation of global sourcing and the growing diversification of supply regions.

Brazil sets new cotton export record and consolidates global leadership

Brazil ended the 2025/26 commercial year with a new record, consolidating its position as the world’s largest cotton exporter. Between August 2025 and July 2026, the country shipped 3,373,941 tonnes of the fiber, 19% more than in the previous cycle, and reached record revenue of US$5.3 billion. The result represents a milestone in Brazil’s expansion in the international market and reinforces the country’s role as a strategic supplier to the global textile industry.

The LYCRA Company expands its co-creation vision through an immersive Lifestyle District at Intertextile Shanghai.

The LYCRA Company, a global leader in fiber and technology solutions for the apparel industry, is reimagining the trade show experience at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Autumn Edition, which opened today in China. Building on the success of last year's ALL IN concept, the company has expanded its co-creation vision into a 356-square-meter Lifestyle District featuring partners Jingzili New Material, JYT Textile, Lianxingfa Knitting, and Trend Textile. The district is part of a larger 895-square-meter pavilion showcasing a total of 19 co-exhibitors. Together, they demonstrate how innovations in fiber, fabric, and garments can be combined to create compelling solutions for both work and play.