#Raw Materials

2021-03-04

Organic Cotton, with confidence of no genetic engineering

Manufacturers, brands and retailers, as well as certification organisations, benefit from complete analytical evidence right through to the end product: consumers can be confident that no genetically modified cotton has been detected in the articles they buy. © Hohenstein

Textiles without genetic engineering - when it comes to this concern, more and more consumers are turning to organic cotton and are happy to accept higher prices for it. This is because the cultivation of organic cotton requires the renunciation of genetically modified seeds as well as chemical pesticides and fertilisers. Nevertheless, genetic modifications are found time and again in textiles that are actually labelled with the relevant organic labels.

Hohenstein is one of only a few testing laboratories worldwide accredited to ISO 17025 for the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol

The conceivable causes of contamination of organic cotton by genetic modifications are complex and extend along the entire value chain. The textile testing service provider Hohenstein is currently one of five laboratories in Europe that carries out accredited testing of textiles for genetically modified organisms (GMO) in accordance with the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol.

The protocol was developed by the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) as an International Workshop Agreement (IWA) on the initiative of Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and Textile Exchange. The aim is to be able to apply an official, standardised GMO testing protocol for textiles from organic cultivation. According to this, all organic cotton must be free of genetic engineering, whereas conventional cotton permits the use of genetic engineering. In mid-February 2021, the initiators of the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol published an overview of the 14 testing laboratories worldwide that are permitted to carry out tests in accordance with the protocol's requirements, including the German testing service provider Hohenstein.

However, the Hohenstein experts have also developed their own molecular biological detection systems in order to be able to test genetically modified cotton at all critical points along the entire value chain - from raw cotton to yarns and fabrics to finished end products. The screening thus allows complete traceability throughout the entire textile chain with clear yes/no statements about GMO-free cotton or textiles.

Textiles without genetic engineering - with this concern, more and more consumers are turning to organic cotton and are happy to accept higher prices for it. © Hohenstein

As a member institute of the OEKO-TEX® Association, Hohenstein also screens textiles for genetically modified organisms as part of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification. If the requirements are met, the articles can be advertised here with the claims "organic cotton", "biological cotton" or "GMO not detectable".

Manufacturers, brands and retailers, but also certification organisations, benefit from complete analytical evidence all the way to the end product: consumers can be confident that no genetically modified cotton could be detected in the articles they buy. This is because up to now most organic certifications either do not include any obligatory laboratory tests at all or only random sample tests on cotton seeds.

More information:?

http://www.hohenstein.com/gmo-testing?

http://www.hohenstein.com

Two steps to 100 percent certainty - Hohenstein GMO tests are carried out as follows:

1. The sample is shredded and the cotton fibres are broken down mechanically and enzymatically. The genetic material (DNA) is isolated from the fibre and purified in a multi-stage process.

2. A genetic modification exists if specific target sequences (marker genes) are present in the DNA. These can be detected by molecular biology. Control reactions are used to detect unmodified cotton DNA and to exclude false-negative results.

New DIN SPEC assesses environmental impact of textile fragments in soil

Textile products made from synthetic fibres, finished fabrics or dyed materials release fibre fragments into the environment at every stage of their life cycle. With the new DIN SPEC 19296, Hohenstein has developed a standardised testing method to analyse how these fragments behave in soil under natural conditions. Until now, little was known about their environmental behaviour or potential ecological effects once released.

Testing and research laboratory ensures safe and more sustainable products worldwide

For 80 years, Hohenstein has stood for independent testing, scientific expertise and practical solutions. Today, the testing and research service provider supports manufacturers and brands worldwide in making textiles, hardlines and medical devices safe, more sustainable and market-ready – thereby building trust among consumers. With an international presence and interdisciplinary expertise, Hohenstein supports its customers from production through to market launch, helping them navigate an environment of growing regulatory and societal demands.

A smarter way to verified Chemical Compliance

Hohenstein and GoBlu Drive Innovation in Sustainable Supply Chain Management As regulatory demands, customer expectations, and sustainability goals continue to grow, the ability to manage chemical compliance and data across complex supply chains has become critical. Hohenstein and The BHive® by GoBlu are initiating a strategic partnership to enhance chemical management in the textile sector. The collaboration delivers more than just a service – it provides an integrated, future-ready solution for brands, manufacturers and suppliers seeking trusted chemical management and credible sustainability.

Hohenstein achieves GLP Certification for Medical Device Testing

Since the middle of July, the testing service provider Hohenstein has been certified to conduct medical device testing in accordance with the internationally recognised Good Laboratory Practice (GLP) standard. This certification comprehensively covers chemical, physical and biological safety testing of medical devices.

New study shows low environmental impact by Cotton made in Africa Organic Cotton from Tanzania

Today, the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) is announcing the results of a comprehensive life-cycle analysis (LCA) for cotton produced in Tanzania under the Cotton made in Africa Organic (CmiA Organic) standard. The study emphasises the small ecological footprint of CmiA Organic verified cotton. This can largely be traced back to the absence of synthetic pesticides, artificial fertilisers, and artificial irrigation. Consequently, CmiA Organic cotton can help the textile industry meet regulatory requirements as well as science-based targets. The results also show that the consequences of climate change threaten the livelihoods of these cotton farmers, even though the type of agriculture they practise barely contributes to climate change.

Textile Exchange publishes cotton Life Cycle Assessment study to strengthen impact data

Textile Exchange has published the first in a series of seven Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) studies designed to improve the quality and robustness of environmental impact data for raw material production across the fashion, textile, and apparel industry. The first LCA study focuses on cotton and addresses critical data gaps and methodology variability through new high-quality data across key producing countries. The study includes organic, regenerative, recycled, and country averages for conventional cotton production systems, providing a clearer picture of the associated environmental impact.

PERFORMANCE DAYS proves its relevance as the industry’s key meeting point

Held on March 18–19, 2026, PERFORMANCE DAYS once again confirmed its position as a leading international platform for functional textiles. A total of 3.366 trade visitors and around 560 exhibitors gathered in Munich, with the event already kicking off successfully on DAY 0, which received highly positive feedback for its interactive format. Despite challenging conditions caused by the public transport strike in Munich, the event saw strong attendance and a consistently high level of activity across both exhibition days.

Reju secures €135 Million in Dutch NIKI Funding for industrial-scale textile-to-textile regeneration hub at Chemelot Industrial Park, the Netherlands

Reju™, the progressive textile-to-textile regeneration company, has been awarded €135 million in funding under the Netherlands’ Nationale Investeringsregeling Klimaatprojecten Industrie (NIKI) program. The funding will support Reju’s planned industrial-scale Regeneration Hub at Chemelot Industrial Park in Sittard-Geleen, covering both the investment phase and ongoing operations, and represents a critical milestone on the path toward final investment decision.