#Sustainability

2023-01-12

OEKO-TEX® new regulations 2023

Creating trust within the textile and leather industry and for its customers is the mission of OEKO-TEX®. Since trust is based on consistently high quality, the OEKO-TEX® Association is again publishing updates to the applicable test criteria, limit values and guidelines for its certifications.

The new regulations will finally come into force in Q1 2023, after a transition period. Other introductions include integration of the BHive® app from GoBlu into STeP, which will enable certified production companies to check sustainability requirements and chemical management in global supply chains. The new OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON certification will verify reliable labelling of organic cotton textiles starting April 2023. In addition, OEKO-TEX® has issued a general ban on the use of perfluorinated and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS/PFC) in textiles, leather and footwear for the STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT certifications. Further changes to OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT certification will make the previously voluntary self-assessment mandatory for all production sites from April 2023.

New integration: OEKO-TEX® STeP goes BHive®

Cooperation and exchange with experts from the textile and leather industry are of great importance to the OEKO-TEX® Association. An important partnership was created with sustainability accelerator GoBlu International Ltd.

The BHive® app, developed by GoBlu, enables manufacturers to collect information on all chemical products used on site, via smartphone, and determine which products meet the sustainability requirements of different brands and retailers. All information is automatically recorded in a chemical inventory so that brands can directly access transparent and precise data. Starting April 2023, OEKO-TEX® STeP customers can utilize this comprehensive chemical database to reduce labor, time and costs. The intelligent system also aligns compliance with recognized industry standards such as the STeP and ZDHC MRSLs.

New certification: OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON

Starting April 2023, the new OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON certification will focus on reliable labelling of organic cotton textiles. "More and more consumers prefer sustainable textiles, and demand for organic cotton is growing rapidly," said OEKO-TEX® Secretary General Georg Dieners, "But how reliable is their labelling?" In addition to the qualitative DNA analysis of the sample material (i.e., Does a product contain genetically modified cotton, yes or no?), a second step involves quantification - determining the proportion of genetically modified cotton in a cotton product. The aim is not only to check production, but to make the raw materials traceable through the supply chain. Georg Dieners explains: "What's new is that we will start checking for genetically modified cotton at the beginning of the supply chain - at the ginning stage when the cotton fibres are separated from the seed. Then we can follow the flow of goods through all stages."

OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT: Self-assessment to be mandatory in future plus adaptation to ZDHC update

OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT certification has consisted of a mandatory CAS number screening and laboratory analysis. The self-assessment and the on-site visit to customers were voluntary. While the on-site visit will remain voluntary until further notice, the self-assessment will become mandatory for all customers' production sites from April 2023. All certifications issued after April 1, 2023, must be accompanied by a valid self-assessment. For existing customers, there is a possible transition period. OEKO-TEX® has issued a general ban on the use of perfluorinated and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS/PFC) in textiles, leather and footwear for the STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT certifications. This is in coordination with the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL) version 3.0 and its new Conformance Guidance 2.0. ECO PASSPORT will comply with these requirements in February 2023 to ensure a smooth transition for all customers.

Updates to STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT limit value catalogues

Additional pesticides have been added to STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT certifications, such as chlorothalonil in Annex 4 and 6, which were previously under observation. Also, three substances have been reclassified as Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC) that may have serious effects on human health and the environment. In general, having strict requirements for certain substances reduces exposure to the environment, workers and consumers.

New under observation

In 2023, OEKO-TEX® will continue to monitor various substances based on the latest scientific findings and conformity with relevant specifications. This primarily concerns the antioxidant drometrizole and the chemical compound N-ethyl-2-pyrrolidone.

The 2023 new regulations are available in detail for OEKO-TEX® products on the website www.oeko-tex.com/news.

In addition, a webinar with detailed information is available to all interested parties on 16. January 2023. Register at oeko-tex.com.

New DIN SPEC assesses environmental impact of textile fragments in soil

Textile products made from synthetic fibres, finished fabrics or dyed materials release fibre fragments into the environment at every stage of their life cycle. With the new DIN SPEC 19296, Hohenstein has developed a standardised testing method to analyse how these fragments behave in soil under natural conditions. Until now, little was known about their environmental behaviour or potential ecological effects once released.

Testing and research laboratory ensures safe and more sustainable products worldwide

For 80 years, Hohenstein has stood for independent testing, scientific expertise and practical solutions. Today, the testing and research service provider supports manufacturers and brands worldwide in making textiles, hardlines and medical devices safe, more sustainable and market-ready – thereby building trust among consumers. With an international presence and interdisciplinary expertise, Hohenstein supports its customers from production through to market launch, helping them navigate an environment of growing regulatory and societal demands.

A smarter way to verified Chemical Compliance

Hohenstein and GoBlu Drive Innovation in Sustainable Supply Chain Management As regulatory demands, customer expectations, and sustainability goals continue to grow, the ability to manage chemical compliance and data across complex supply chains has become critical. Hohenstein and The BHive® by GoBlu are initiating a strategic partnership to enhance chemical management in the textile sector. The collaboration delivers more than just a service – it provides an integrated, future-ready solution for brands, manufacturers and suppliers seeking trusted chemical management and credible sustainability.

Hohenstein achieves GLP Certification for Medical Device Testing

Since the middle of July, the testing service provider Hohenstein has been certified to conduct medical device testing in accordance with the internationally recognised Good Laboratory Practice (GLP) standard. This certification comprehensively covers chemical, physical and biological safety testing of medical devices.

Jeanologia urges industry to accelerate PP Spray phase-out following ZDHC Watchlist update

Potassium permanganate has officially entered the Chemical Watchlist of the ZDHC Foundation, signaling increased scrutiny and potential phase-out of one of the most hazardous chemicals still used in denim finishing. The inclusion confirms an industry shift that Jeanologia anticipated more than a decade ago.

Global Standard strengthens presence in Southeast Asia at VIATT 2026

Global Standard will participate in the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) 2026, organized by Messe Frankfurt, the first textile trade show in the APAC region this year. Global Standard will host a booth and Felica Shi will lead a seminar on Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). The trade fair will take place from February 26 to 28, 2026, in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

High-performance yarns for tomorrow's mobility

At this year's Techtextil in Frankfurt (April 21–24), Barmag will be presenting comprehensive solutions for the production of industrial filament yarns at the VDMA joint stand (Hall 12, C56). The focus will be on applications that ensure greater safety, durability, and efficiency in automotive engineering.

JEC World 2026 returns with an unprecedented content program

Recognized worldwide as the leading trade exhibition for composite materials and their applications, JEC World returns on March 10-12, 2026, at Paris Nord Villepinte as the most ambitious edition to date, in line with its motto “Pushing the limits”. As the must-attend event for the composites industry, JEC World will offer an unprecedented program, blending conferences, markets insights, technical sessions, awards, and above all, a unique experience and invaluable connections.

Beyond the wardrobe – innovative cotton takes the spotlight

Cotton can do more – a lot more. Cutting-edge textiles and high-tech products made from 100% cotton prove just how powerfully performance and sustainability can come together. That very surge of innovation is front and centre at the 38th Bremen Cotton Conference, taking place March 25–27, 2026, at Bremen’s Parliament on the historic market square – culminating in a bold and dedicated closing session on Friday. In the spotlight: performance upgrades for pure cotton, smart strategies for circular textile waste solutions, and pioneering concepts for demanding technical applications. From natural fibre–reinforced composites to highly effective flame-retardant solutions, cotton steps out of the closet and shows the future potential woven into every fibre.