#Sustainability

2023-01-12

OEKO-TEX® new regulations 2023

Creating trust within the textile and leather industry and for its customers is the mission of OEKO-TEX®. Since trust is based on consistently high quality, the OEKO-TEX® Association is again publishing updates to the applicable test criteria, limit values and guidelines for its certifications.

The new regulations will finally come into force in Q1 2023, after a transition period. Other introductions include integration of the BHive® app from GoBlu into STeP, which will enable certified production companies to check sustainability requirements and chemical management in global supply chains. The new OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON certification will verify reliable labelling of organic cotton textiles starting April 2023. In addition, OEKO-TEX® has issued a general ban on the use of perfluorinated and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS/PFC) in textiles, leather and footwear for the STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT certifications. Further changes to OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT certification will make the previously voluntary self-assessment mandatory for all production sites from April 2023.

New integration: OEKO-TEX® STeP goes BHive®

Cooperation and exchange with experts from the textile and leather industry are of great importance to the OEKO-TEX® Association. An important partnership was created with sustainability accelerator GoBlu International Ltd.

The BHive® app, developed by GoBlu, enables manufacturers to collect information on all chemical products used on site, via smartphone, and determine which products meet the sustainability requirements of different brands and retailers. All information is automatically recorded in a chemical inventory so that brands can directly access transparent and precise data. Starting April 2023, OEKO-TEX® STeP customers can utilize this comprehensive chemical database to reduce labor, time and costs. The intelligent system also aligns compliance with recognized industry standards such as the STeP and ZDHC MRSLs.

New certification: OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON

Starting April 2023, the new OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON certification will focus on reliable labelling of organic cotton textiles. "More and more consumers prefer sustainable textiles, and demand for organic cotton is growing rapidly," said OEKO-TEX® Secretary General Georg Dieners, "But how reliable is their labelling?" In addition to the qualitative DNA analysis of the sample material (i.e., Does a product contain genetically modified cotton, yes or no?), a second step involves quantification - determining the proportion of genetically modified cotton in a cotton product. The aim is not only to check production, but to make the raw materials traceable through the supply chain. Georg Dieners explains: "What's new is that we will start checking for genetically modified cotton at the beginning of the supply chain - at the ginning stage when the cotton fibres are separated from the seed. Then we can follow the flow of goods through all stages."

OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT: Self-assessment to be mandatory in future plus adaptation to ZDHC update

OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT certification has consisted of a mandatory CAS number screening and laboratory analysis. The self-assessment and the on-site visit to customers were voluntary. While the on-site visit will remain voluntary until further notice, the self-assessment will become mandatory for all customers' production sites from April 2023. All certifications issued after April 1, 2023, must be accompanied by a valid self-assessment. For existing customers, there is a possible transition period. OEKO-TEX® has issued a general ban on the use of perfluorinated and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS/PFC) in textiles, leather and footwear for the STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT certifications. This is in coordination with the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL) version 3.0 and its new Conformance Guidance 2.0. ECO PASSPORT will comply with these requirements in February 2023 to ensure a smooth transition for all customers.

Updates to STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT limit value catalogues

Additional pesticides have been added to STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT certifications, such as chlorothalonil in Annex 4 and 6, which were previously under observation. Also, three substances have been reclassified as Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC) that may have serious effects on human health and the environment. In general, having strict requirements for certain substances reduces exposure to the environment, workers and consumers.

New under observation

In 2023, OEKO-TEX® will continue to monitor various substances based on the latest scientific findings and conformity with relevant specifications. This primarily concerns the antioxidant drometrizole and the chemical compound N-ethyl-2-pyrrolidone.

The 2023 new regulations are available in detail for OEKO-TEX® products on the website www.oeko-tex.com/news.

In addition, a webinar with detailed information is available to all interested parties on 16. January 2023. Register at oeko-tex.com.

Hohenstein publishes 2025 Sustainability Report

The testing and research service provider Hohenstein has published its latest sustainability report, outlining key progress and strategic initiatives. The report focuses on ambitious CO₂ reduction targets, the company’s new mission statement and the systematic expansion of sustainable services for customers worldwide.

New DIN SPEC assesses environmental impact of textile fragments in soil

Textile products made from synthetic fibres, finished fabrics or dyed materials release fibre fragments into the environment at every stage of their life cycle. With the new DIN SPEC 19296, Hohenstein has developed a standardised testing method to analyse how these fragments behave in soil under natural conditions. Until now, little was known about their environmental behaviour or potential ecological effects once released.

Testing and research laboratory ensures safe and more sustainable products worldwide

For 80 years, Hohenstein has stood for independent testing, scientific expertise and practical solutions. Today, the testing and research service provider supports manufacturers and brands worldwide in making textiles, hardlines and medical devices safe, more sustainable and market-ready – thereby building trust among consumers. With an international presence and interdisciplinary expertise, Hohenstein supports its customers from production through to market launch, helping them navigate an environment of growing regulatory and societal demands.

A smarter way to verified Chemical Compliance

Hohenstein and GoBlu Drive Innovation in Sustainable Supply Chain Management As regulatory demands, customer expectations, and sustainability goals continue to grow, the ability to manage chemical compliance and data across complex supply chains has become critical. Hohenstein and The BHive® by GoBlu are initiating a strategic partnership to enhance chemical management in the textile sector. The collaboration delivers more than just a service – it provides an integrated, future-ready solution for brands, manufacturers and suppliers seeking trusted chemical management and credible sustainability.

Global Standard gGmbH launches second public consultation for GRTS Draft 2 for the textile industry (1–30 April 2026)

Global Standard gGmbH is pleased to announce the release of Draft 2 of the Global Responsible Textile Standard (GRTS) for its second public consultation. The consultation will be open from 1 April 2026 to 30 April 2026, inviting stakeholders across the textile and apparel value chain to provide input and contribute to the further development of this new Standard.

Textile Exchange publishes cotton Life Cycle Assessment study to strengthen impact data

Textile Exchange has published the first in a series of seven Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) studies designed to improve the quality and robustness of environmental impact data for raw material production across the fashion, textile, and apparel industry. The first LCA study focuses on cotton and addresses critical data gaps and methodology variability through new high-quality data across key producing countries. The study includes organic, regenerative, recycled, and country averages for conventional cotton production systems, providing a clearer picture of the associated environmental impact.

Experts publish APAC policy priorities

Cascale today announced the publication of its APAC Policy Priorities Paper, developed by the Asia-Pacific (APAC) Policy Member Expert Team (MET) to identify key regional sustainability challenges and provide practical, aligned recommendations for policymakers and industry stakeholders across Asia-Pacific.

Speed and connectivity: Techtextil and Texprocess provided market-ready solutions for industries under pressure

With more than 36,000 visitors and 1,700 exhibitors from a total of 112 countries, Techtextil and Texprocess 2026 demonstrated how innovation comes into industrial use. The convergence of research, industry and application proved to be a breeding ground for new material solutions, manufacturing and processing technologies. Natural fibres, performance apparel, connected systems and AI-driven processing technologies emerged as key growth and future markets.

Italian Textile Machinery heads to Geneva for Index 2026

An important delegation of Italian companies will exhibit at the upcoming INDEX 2026, the world’s leading event for the nonwovens sector, taking place from May 19 to 22 in Geneva (Switzerland). Numerous Italian exhibitors will be present within the Italy Pavilion, organized by the Italian Trade Agency (ICE) and ACIMIT, an exhibition area of over 140 square meters dedicated to the latest innovations proposed by the Italian industry.