[pageLogInLogOut]
THE BEAUTY OF DETAIL GROZ-BECKERT

#Knitting & Hosiery

Movement without gears. Patterning without limits.

KARL MAYER celebrates 35 years of EL pattern drive

EL Pattern Drive Double Raschel maschine © 2025 KARL MAYER
KARL MAYER is celebrating an anniversary this year: on 30 November 1990, the first warp knitting machine with electronic guide bar control, the KS 4 EL, was delivered – another milestone for patterning. As early as 1980, the SU gearbox with the MRS42SU had initiated the transition from mechanical chains to digital data.

SU drive: cassette instead of chain

The SU drive – first introduced in Multibar Raschel machines – controlled the shogging movement of the guide bars magneto-mechanically via actuators and a microcomputer. The advantages were virtually unlimited repeat lengths, higher production speeds, less handling and shorter set-up times. Patterns could be changed in minutes instead of hours without changing chains.

Thanks to an SU drive with integrated overlap device developed in 1985, the pattern chains and discs for the guide bar control on tricot machines could also be replaced – paving the way for further electronic solutions.

EL guide bar control: motor instead of mechanics

In order to overcome the mechanical limitations of the SU drive for tricot machines, KARL MAYER developed a system with electric motors, thereby performing pioneering work.

“We wanted to use electric motors to move the bars. That was completely new territory,” recalls Georg Kraus, Senior Expert Technology Development and EL pattern drive activist from the very beginning.

A test rig with asynchronous motors and ball screws showed that the new principle worked quickly, precisely and reliably.

The prototype led to the development of electronic guide bar control, and a new era began. The first KS 4 EL was up to 37% faster than the version with SU drive and offered completely free patterning via data transfer without pattern discs and without mechanical limitations. It also required less maintenance and space.

Georg Kraus © 2025 KARL MAYER
Georg Kraus © 2025 KARL MAYER


Expansion to further machine types

Subsequently, NIPPON MAYER's double raschel machines and machines for the production of technical textiles were converted to the EL system.

The lace raschel machines followed later. Thanks to an upgrade for use in high-bar models, the first Multibar Raschel machine with electronic control of all guide bars – a TL 66 – was launched in 2002. The models in this series also had an additional advantage: the compact design of the mechanics allowed the integration of more guide bars and a higher maximum shogging distance for the pattern bars, thus offering greater patterning potential compared to the variants with SU equipment.

Extension to other machine components

At the same time, the price-performance ratio of the EL system was improved, but above all its potential was also exploited for other sub-processes of warp knitting, such as yarn feeding.

Based on EL technology for the tension rail, Advanced Feeding Control (AFC) was developed, which ensures maximum machine performance even with complex patterns involving highly variable yarn consumption. Equipped with the AFC system, the fastest three-bar tricot machine with electronic guide bar control on the market was introduced at ITMA 2023. The newcomer produced a pleated fabric at a speed of 2,900 rpm in front of an astonished audience at the trade fair.

There was also a quantum leap in the field of technical textiles: the warp knitting machine with weft insertion WEFTTRONIC® II G with the new VARIO WEFT laying system was also introduced at ITMA 2023. The weft insertion system does not require any mechanical intervention regarding the threading for weft patterning, has no repeat limitation and reduces edge waste. This is also based on EL technology.

For technology pioneer Georg Kraus, the potential of the EL drive is far from exhausted. In the medium term, he expects it to completely replace the N pattern drive. He also has many ideas for further electronic applications in the warp knitting machine sector.




More News from KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH

#Knitting & Hosiery

Footwear innovation enabled by warp knitting technology– insights from New Balance

The future of the athletic shoe is increasingly being shaped on warp knitting machines. For KARL MAYER, the footwear industry is one of the most important growth markets – and one of the sectors where innovative textiles can realize their full potential. In his keynote address at the opening of KARL MAYER’s TEXTILE INNOVATION CENTER in Obertshausen in April, Vishnu Prakash Muthusamy, Senior Textile and Materials Engineer at New Balance, explained the opportunities that warp knitting technology opens up for performance, sustainability, and faster development processes, and why textile manufacturers are transitioning from suppliers to development partners.

#ITM 2026

Positive market signals for KARL MAYER at ITM 2026

KARL MAYER is pleased with its participation as an exhibitor at ITM 2026. Faced with the challenges of rising domestic costs and fierce competition from low-priced Asian markets, the industry leader had traveled to Istanbul with mixed feelings – yet still draws a really positive conclusion.

#Knitting & Hosiery

STOLL: Agreement signed for the divestiture of selected assets

In early 2025, KARL MAYER announced its strategic decision to focus on its core business areas of WARP KNITTING, WARP PREPARATION, and TECHNICAL TEXTILES. As part of this move, the flat knitting machine business under the STOLL brand was discontinued and the production site in Reutlingen was closed in October 2025.

#ITM 2026

KARL MAYER presents a textile TEXTRONIC® innovation at ITM 2026

With highly efficient machines and continuous textile innovations, KARL MAYER underscores its role as a reliable partner for discerning top-tier customers. Just in time for ITM 2026 in Istanbul, the industry leader is introducing a true innovation: an eyelash lace with its characteristic fringed look – combined with a previously unattainable 4-way stretch. While the established fabric could until now only be produced as rigid version or with one-dimensional stretch, the new elasticity in both dimensions expands the possibilities for cross-band panel fabrics.

More News on Knitting & Hosiery

#ITM 2026

ITM 2026: Mayer & Cie. Global presents itself successfully at international industry trade fair

Mayer & Cie. Global has used ITM 2026 in Istanbul for its first major international appearance since the restart. Together with the Turkish representative Mayer Mümessillik, the company presented its premium circular knitting machines "Made in Germany", explained its future positioning within the group of companies and held talks with customers and representatives from numerous markets. The response to the restart was positive. The clear orientation of the company, the reliable worldwide network of representatives and the resumption of service and spare parts supply were welcomed by customers.

#Knitting & Hosiery

TM WEFT, 270" – More width, more design freedom for the fashion world

KARL MAYER is expanding its successful TM WEFT series with an innovative model that opens up new possibilities, particularly in the fashion & apparel sectors. With a working width of 270", this new machine with weft-insertion not only offers significantly higher output than its narrower counterparts but is also specifically tailored to the demands of dynamic clothing market – particularly in China and Türkiye. A well-thought-out upgrade also ensures even greater design versatility.

#Knitting & Hosiery

“We need to move away from the price trap and return to a value-driven mindset.”

With its new Textile Innovation Center, KARL MAYER is sending a strong signal for innovation, collaboration, and the future of textile applications. In this interview, Karl Josef Mayer discusses new opportunities in warp knitting, the processing of staple fibres, recycling, the changing role of machinery manufacturers, and why the textile industry must once again focus more strongly on the value of textiles. by Oliver Schmidt

Latest News

#Research & Development

2026 general meeting of the Friends and Supporters of RWTH Aachen at ITA

The Friends and Supporters of RWTH Aachen e. V. (proRWTH) looked back on a successful year of support at their 2026 general meeting. The meeting took place at Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen and was combined with a joint session of the Executive Board and the Administrative Board. Before the general meeting began, participants were given a guided tour of ITA, providing them with fascinating insights into current research and development topics in textile engineering.

#Natural Fibers

Cotton ConneXions Insight to Impact brings supply chain leaders together around cotton innovation

Cotton Incorporated’s Cotton ConneXions Insight to Impact brought together more than 300 industry leaders from 140 companies across 10 countries, including more than 45 top global brands and sourcing organizations, underscoring strong global interest in cotton-rich product development, sourcing and supply chain collaboration.

#Natural Fibers

Cashmere specialist joins AbTF Board of Trustees

The Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) is pleased to welcome Brian Yu, the chief executive officer of the Artwell Group, to its board of trustees. As CEO, Brian Yu developed Artwell into the world’s largest supplier of responsibly produced cashmere knitwear.

#Recycling / Circular Economy

HKRITA signs MoU with Jeanologia and Looptworks to establish the Green Machine Circular Textile Ecosystem

The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) yesterday officially signed a landmark Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with two key global partners, Jeanologia and Looptworks, to establish the Green Machine Circular Textile Ecosystem – a first-of-its-kind collaboration to accelerate the large-scale recycling of blended textiles.

TOP