#Recycling / Circular Economy

2021-10-07

Large scale study from H&M Group and IKEA shows potential to transform the way we use recycled textiles

Through a broad industry collaboration, H&M Group and Inter IKEA have been able to create a large-scale databank to understand potentials and challenges with recycled textile from a chemical contamination perspective. H&M Group and Inter IKEA Group will now use these findings to increase knowledge around chemical content in recycled textiles and to impact legislation around circular economy.

To reach both companies’ goals to only use 100% recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030(1), a key step is to find clean and reliable sources of recyclable materials.

To tackle these industrywide challenges, H&M Group and Inter IKEA Group initiated a large-scale study in 2019, looking at chemical content in recycled textiles. The aim of the study has been to strategically increase knowledge, and overcome challenges to exchange data, and stimulate chemical transparency across the industry. Collaboration is essential to enable real change within the textile industry, and during the autumn of 2020, more brands joined the study as contributors. With all involved companies’ size and presence, there is a great opportunity to lead the way. Even though the study is now finalized, a lot of work still needs to be done.

With industry collaboration, we can overcome common challenges on our way to transform to a circular business. This study has enabled us to share data through a digital platform, creating transparency and knowledge sharing, as well as creating facts to support us in taking our next steps on our journey to only use recycled and renewable materials.

Mirjam Luc, Project leader for Recycled Textiles at IKEA of Sweden

Post-consumer cotton, wool, and polyester waste sourced from different regions of the world were tested, resulting in a total of 70,080 data points. 2.5% of the data points showed undesirable detections, but less than 1% of the data points exceeded AFIRM RSL(2) limits. Post-consumer polyester samples had the widest variety of substances detected. In post-consumer wool samples almost all samples contained at least one substance that failed against AFIRM RSL limits. Tackling the presence of legacy chemicals and hazardous chemicals in recycled materials will be key in realizing circularity within the fashion and textile industry.

To achieve fully circular and future-proof products, legacy chemicals must be avoided from start. Only through industry collaboration and a transparent, harmonized hazard assessment methodology for all chemicals and materials – can we be proactive and secure safe and sustainable products for a toxic-free textile future.

Linn Farhadi, Project Manager for Recycled Textiles at H&M Group

H&M Group and IKEA will use the findings of the study to support public policy to enable usage of recycled textiles, which are safe to use. The results will also be used to advocate for establishing an acknowledged and harmonised hazard assessment methodology for chemicals used in production. This ensures that brands can assess the best available chemicals from a safety and recyclability perspective. Any chemicals hampering recycling and material recovery should be restricted.

It’s great to see companies working together to gain increased knowledge about the chemical content of recycled textiles. We hope that studies like these will result in cleaner material flows and also motivate legislators to speed up the work with phasing out hazardous substances in products

Theresa Kjell, Senior Policy Advisor at ChemSec

1) IKEA aim to use only renewable or recycled materials by 2030.

2) AFIRM Restricted Substances List (Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management (AFIRM) Group)

Performance Apparels: Functional textiles drive innovation at Techtextil 2026

From high-performance fibres and advanced membranes to smart textiles and sustainable material concepts – functional apparel is becoming one of the most dynamic innovation fields in technical textiles. At Techtextil 2026, exhibitors demonstrate how new materials, finishing technologies and digital functions are shaping the next generation of protective, workwear and outdoor systems.

Texprocess 2026: Automation, digitalisation and AI reshape textile processing

Investment decisions in textile processing have become increasingly complex. Rising energy prices, labour shortages and geopolitical uncertainties are forcing companies to prioritise technologies that deliver measurable improvements in efficiency and process stability. This applies not only to apparel production, but also to the processing of technical textiles and high-performance materials. Modernisation projects are therefore being evaluated more selectively – but the pressure to upgrade production systems continues to grow. Texprocess 2026 reflects this tension between cautious investment behaviour and increasing technological demand.

Textile Chemicals & Dyes: Innovation in Textile Chemistry moves into focus at Techtextil 2026

From PFAS-free finishes and water-saving dyeing technologies to advanced coatings and recycling-compatible formulations, innovation in textile chemistry is accelerating across the industry. Reflecting this development, Techtextil 2026 introduces Textile Chemicals & Dyes as a dedicated product segment, highlighting the growing role of chemical solutions in shaping the next generation of technical textiles.

textile.4U publishes special edition “Top 100 Textile Recycling Companies 2025”

With a comprehensive 176-page special edition, textile.4U is dedicating its latest issue entirely to one of the most dynamic and influential topics in today’s textile industry: textile recycling. The new issue, published exclusively in high-quality print, presents the Top 100 textile recycling companies researched and selected by TexData – organizations that already play a key role in the transition to circular textiles or are expected to have a significant impact in the near future.

Reju secures €135 Million in Dutch NIKI Funding for industrial-scale textile-to-textile regeneration hub at Chemelot Industrial Park, the Netherlands

Reju™, the progressive textile-to-textile regeneration company, has been awarded €135 million in funding under the Netherlands’ Nationale Investeringsregeling Klimaatprojecten Industrie (NIKI) program. The funding will support Reju’s planned industrial-scale Regeneration Hub at Chemelot Industrial Park in Sittard-Geleen, covering both the investment phase and ongoing operations, and represents a critical milestone on the path toward final investment decision.

eeden is now a Canopy partner

eeden is committed to enable circular textiles by developing recycling technologies that turn textile waste into valuable raw materials. But the commitment goes further – eeden advocates for supply chain solutions that uphold responsible environmental and ethical standards, protecting global ecosystems including Ancient and Endangered Forests.

Carbios confirms Longlaville plant in France following financing progress

Carbios has reaffirmed its plans to build its Longlaville plant in France within a project financing framework, targeting the start of production in the first half of 2028. The company also reports a solid cash position of around €60 million at the end of 2025 and has appointed Benoît Grenot as Deputy Chief Executive Officer to support the execution of its strategic projects.

New study shows low environmental impact by Cotton made in Africa Organic Cotton from Tanzania

Today, the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) is announcing the results of a comprehensive life-cycle analysis (LCA) for cotton produced in Tanzania under the Cotton made in Africa Organic (CmiA Organic) standard. The study emphasises the small ecological footprint of CmiA Organic verified cotton. This can largely be traced back to the absence of synthetic pesticides, artificial fertilisers, and artificial irrigation. Consequently, CmiA Organic cotton can help the textile industry meet regulatory requirements as well as science-based targets. The results also show that the consequences of climate change threaten the livelihoods of these cotton farmers, even though the type of agriculture they practise barely contributes to climate change.

PERFORMANCE DAYS proves its relevance as the industry’s key meeting point

Held on March 18–19, 2026, PERFORMANCE DAYS once again confirmed its position as a leading international platform for functional textiles. A total of 3.366 trade visitors and around 560 exhibitors gathered in Munich, with the event already kicking off successfully on DAY 0, which received highly positive feedback for its interactive format. Despite challenging conditions caused by the public transport strike in Munich, the event saw strong attendance and a consistently high level of activity across both exhibition days.