#Research & Development

2021-08-19

All Organic?

Hohenstein uses a new quantitative method to detect the type and extent of genetic modifications in organic cotton directly during the process chain.

There has been a sharp rise in demand for organic cotton products. Compared to conventionally grown cotton, the cultivation of organic cotton requires the renunciation of genetically modified seeds, chemical pesticides or fertilisers. Nevertheless, genetic modifications are repeatedly found in textiles that are falsely labelled with organic claims. Often, available certification systems are not backed up by lab testing. At best, they only take random seed samples. Textile testing specialist, Hohenstein, has developed an assessment method specifically for cotton. This new DNA analysis method makes it possible to ascertain the amount of genetically modified cotton contained in products. This is good news for textile industry stakeholders who will be on the safe side in terms of quality control and labelling of organic cotton products.

First step: qualitative screening and identification. Second step: quantification of genetically modified cotton.

For qualitative screening, Hohenstein experts had developed molecular biological detection systems to make clear yes/no statements about genetically modified cotton. Testing can be applied to all kinds of materials, from raw cotton to chemically untreated yarns and fabrics. In addition, Hohenstein is one of only a few laboratories in the world accredited to test for GMOs in accordance with the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol. Its method provides reliable evidence of the presence or exclusion of genetic modification in cotton textile precursors.

Manufacturers, brand owners, retailers and certification bodies all benefit from analytical evidence – all the way to the end product. Consumers can rest assured that no GM cotton has been detected in the articles they buy. © Hohenstein

GMO-free textiles – an issue that is causing more and more consumers to turn to organic cotton. They are also happy to pay higher prices for it. © Hohenstein

Once qualitative proof of genetic modification is obtained, Hohenstein experts begin quantifying the type and extent of the genetic modifications. To do this, they use DNA analysis to search for different cotton lines known to contain genetic alterations and quantify the proportion. Only by pinpointing individual genetic modifications and quantifying the extent of modification is it possible to provide precise information on whether there is an extremely small proportion of contamination, or whether larger proportions of GMOs have been mixed in. This offers clear benefits to manufacturers, brand owners and retailers when it comes to supply chain transparency and fraud prevention.

More information:

www.hohenstein.com/gmo-testing

www.hohenstein.com

A new standard to combat plastic waste in forests

With DIN SPEC 35808 “Tree Shelter for Forestry Applications,” the testing and research service provider Hohenstein, in collaboration with Rottenburg University of Forestry, as well as forestry authorities and industry partners, has established a clear framework for bio-based and fully biodegradable tree shelters. The pre-standard defines requirements and practical testing methods designed to reduce plastic waste in forests and strengthen the long-term protection of soil and the environment.

Hohenstein publishes 2025 Sustainability Report

The testing and research service provider Hohenstein has published its latest sustainability report, outlining key progress and strategic initiatives. The report focuses on ambitious CO₂ reduction targets, the company’s new mission statement and the systematic expansion of sustainable services for customers worldwide.

New DIN SPEC assesses environmental impact of textile fragments in soil

Textile products made from synthetic fibres, finished fabrics or dyed materials release fibre fragments into the environment at every stage of their life cycle. With the new DIN SPEC 19296, Hohenstein has developed a standardised testing method to analyse how these fragments behave in soil under natural conditions. Until now, little was known about their environmental behaviour or potential ecological effects once released.

DITF develops bio-based binding fibers for wood-fiber insulation materials

As part of the CelluWoodFlex project, the German Institutes of Textile- and Fiber-Research in Denkendorf (DITF) are developing bio-based cellulose ester fibers as alternative binding fibers for flexible wood fiber insulation materials. In addition to the spinning process and the production of suitable staple fibers, the institute is also investigating how wood and cellulose fibers can be separated and recycled at the end of their useful life.

POLYMERS-5B develops high-performance bio-based polyesters from agricultural waste

The European research project POLYMERS-5B is developing an integrated enzymatic biorefinery to convert agricultural by-products from Mediterranean food production into valuable raw materials for the food, cosmetics and bio-based plastics industries. Using tomato and olive pomace as feedstock, the process aims to recover several product groups from the same biomass stream. The consortium will present its latest technical developments and market findings at Ecomondo 2026 in Rimini on 3 November.

STFI showcases new Textile LAB Professional with focus on climate protection and sustainable technologies

The Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e. V. (STFI) in Chemnitz is organising a themed day on 3 December 2026, focusing on climate protection and the environment. As well as showcasing current applications for green cities and natural fibres for lightweight construction, the event will feature machine demonstrations in the new Textile LAB Professional. Under the motto ‘Design meets Technology’, this networking event will also provide an insight into artistic student projects, thereby facilitating a professional exchange on creative perspectives and modern technologies for climate protection and the environment.

Trützschler brings intelligent fiber processing and automation to India ITME 2026

From December 4 to 9, 2026, the Trützschler Group will present its latest innovations in spinning, card clothing and nonwovens at India ITME in Greater Noida, India. At Hall 11, Booth B15, visitors can discover solutions designed to increase productivity, reduce operating costs and ensure consistently high product quality. Key highlights include the intelligent card TC 26i, the 12-head comber TCO 21XL, innovative card clothing solutions for improved fiber utilization and quality, as well as advanced nonwovens technologies for hygiene, wipes and technical applications.

Circulose resumes recycling of discarded cotton textiles and appoints interim CEO

Circulose today announced its restart of commercial-scale production plant at Ortviken in Sundsvall, Sweden, marking a significant step in scaling next-generation materials for the global fashion industry. The Ortviken plant is the world’s first commercial-scale chemical textile recycling facility. Its restart demonstrates that the fashion industry is seeking ways to scale proven solutions that move beyond pilots and into commercial production.

Itema brings textile versatility to ITMA ASIA + CITME 2026

Itema announces its participation in ITMA ASIA + CITME 2026, taking place November 20–24 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai. In Hall 3 – Stand D06, the company will showcase two Galileo-RX rapier weaving machines weaving heavy denim and conveyor belt fabrics, demonstrating its ability to address different textile requirements with application-specific configurations. Five additional Itema machines at partner booths will extend the exhibition lineup to upper shoe fabric, label, Jacquard leno fabrics, and shirting, offering visitors a broader view of Itema rapier and air-jet weaving technologies.