#Research & Development

2021-08-19

All Organic?

Hohenstein uses a new quantitative method to detect the type and extent of genetic modifications in organic cotton directly during the process chain.

There has been a sharp rise in demand for organic cotton products. Compared to conventionally grown cotton, the cultivation of organic cotton requires the renunciation of genetically modified seeds, chemical pesticides or fertilisers. Nevertheless, genetic modifications are repeatedly found in textiles that are falsely labelled with organic claims. Often, available certification systems are not backed up by lab testing. At best, they only take random seed samples. Textile testing specialist, Hohenstein, has developed an assessment method specifically for cotton. This new DNA analysis method makes it possible to ascertain the amount of genetically modified cotton contained in products. This is good news for textile industry stakeholders who will be on the safe side in terms of quality control and labelling of organic cotton products.

First step: qualitative screening and identification. Second step: quantification of genetically modified cotton.

For qualitative screening, Hohenstein experts had developed molecular biological detection systems to make clear yes/no statements about genetically modified cotton. Testing can be applied to all kinds of materials, from raw cotton to chemically untreated yarns and fabrics. In addition, Hohenstein is one of only a few laboratories in the world accredited to test for GMOs in accordance with the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol. Its method provides reliable evidence of the presence or exclusion of genetic modification in cotton textile precursors.

Manufacturers, brand owners, retailers and certification bodies all benefit from analytical evidence – all the way to the end product. Consumers can rest assured that no GM cotton has been detected in the articles they buy. © Hohenstein

GMO-free textiles – an issue that is causing more and more consumers to turn to organic cotton. They are also happy to pay higher prices for it. © Hohenstein

Once qualitative proof of genetic modification is obtained, Hohenstein experts begin quantifying the type and extent of the genetic modifications. To do this, they use DNA analysis to search for different cotton lines known to contain genetic alterations and quantify the proportion. Only by pinpointing individual genetic modifications and quantifying the extent of modification is it possible to provide precise information on whether there is an extremely small proportion of contamination, or whether larger proportions of GMOs have been mixed in. This offers clear benefits to manufacturers, brand owners and retailers when it comes to supply chain transparency and fraud prevention.

More information:

www.hohenstein.com/gmo-testing

www.hohenstein.com

A new standard to combat plastic waste in forests

With DIN SPEC 35808 “Tree Shelter for Forestry Applications,” the testing and research service provider Hohenstein, in collaboration with Rottenburg University of Forestry, as well as forestry authorities and industry partners, has established a clear framework for bio-based and fully biodegradable tree shelters. The pre-standard defines requirements and practical testing methods designed to reduce plastic waste in forests and strengthen the long-term protection of soil and the environment.

Hohenstein publishes 2025 Sustainability Report

The testing and research service provider Hohenstein has published its latest sustainability report, outlining key progress and strategic initiatives. The report focuses on ambitious CO₂ reduction targets, the company’s new mission statement and the systematic expansion of sustainable services for customers worldwide.

New DIN SPEC assesses environmental impact of textile fragments in soil

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ITA spin-off TERNAfil wins third place at KUER.NRW 2026 with MAXCarbon technology

The Aachen-based ITA spin-off TERNAfil GmbH has secured third place in the KUER.NRW Business Plan Competition 2026 with MAXCarbon, an innovative carbon-ceramic hybrid fibre developed for applications in the hydrogen economy. The technology combines the mechanical properties of carbon fibres with the thermal and corrosion resistance of ceramic materials.

DITF develops bio-based binding fibers for wood-fiber insulation materials

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POLYMERS-5B develops high-performance bio-based polyesters from agricultural waste

The European research project POLYMERS-5B is developing an integrated enzymatic biorefinery to convert agricultural by-products from Mediterranean food production into valuable raw materials for the food, cosmetics and bio-based plastics industries. Using tomato and olive pomace as feedstock, the process aims to recover several product groups from the same biomass stream. The consortium will present its latest technical developments and market findings at Ecomondo 2026 in Rimini on 3 November.

unspun and Arvind partner to bring 3D weaving into industrial-scale apparel production

US fashion technology company unspun and Indian textile manufacturer Arvind Limited have announced a strategic partnership to introduce OneWeave™ 3D weaving technology into industrial-scale apparel manufacturing. Two machines are expected to become operational at Arvind’s Ahmedabad facility by December 2026, with plans for a potential expansion involving more than 30 additional machines across India and North America in 2027 and 2028.

Better Cotton Initiative partners with FarmRaise to simplify data management for US cotton growers

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) has announced a partnership with agricultural technology company FarmRaise to simplify data collection, reporting and program participation for cotton growers in the United States. The digital platform will help farmers manage certification requirements, document agricultural practices and track progress towards regenerative agriculture goals while reducing administrative work. The solution is scheduled to become available in January 2027.

Jeanologia and Sue Barrett explore new interpretations of camouflage in COMMON GROUND

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