#Raw Materials

2021-10-14

Question time: Organic cotton – Robust demand

In the wake of increased sustainability efforts in the textile and clothing industry, brands and retailers are increasingly focusing on the procurement of organic cotton. The organic cotton market is currently very dynamic. The Bremen Cotton Report editorial team spoke to Maximilian Daebel, Vice President of Bremen cotton merchants Otto Stadtlander, about the current supply and demand situation.

Interview with Maximilian Daebel, Vice President of Bremen cotton merchants Otto Stadtlander.

Where is the current noticeable increase in demand for organic cotton coming from?

For some time now we have noticed the effects of various initiatives aimed at increasing the use of sustainably produced cotton. In Germany, it is worth mentioning the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, while in an international context we are feeling the very strong influence of the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge (initiated by the Textile Exchange).

Most of the internationally relevant brands and retailers are not only meeting the minimum requirements of these initiatives to use sustainable cotton but are also going one step further and committing themselves to the use of organic cotton.

With the collapse of many supply chains during the COVID-19 pandemic, it was possible for them to plan and commercialise sustainable supply chains from scratch. We have seen this above all in the price development from Q3/20 until now.

What is the current price for an average or most popular quality of organic cotton and how has the price developed?

The prices for organic cotton currently range between 1.65 – 1.70 USD/lb for Indian organic cotton and 1.85 – 1.90 USD/lb for Turkish organic cotton (CIF Far Eastern Ports – October shipment).

The premium for Indian organic cotton compared to conventional cotton has increased twentyfold, from three percent 12 months ago to approximately 60 percent, while the premium for Turkish organic cotton has tripled from 20 percent to 65 percent. This is largely due to the demand.

We should also not forget the rise in the price of conventional cotton. Compared to the beginning of the second quarter of 2020, the prices for conventionally grown cotton have also more than doubled.

Do higher prices mean that farmers get more money?

Compared to the previous year, most farmers are receiving a higher price for their cotton. However, this comes down to the timing of the “price-fixing” between the farmer and the ginner. It is therefore possible that not all farmers have been able to participate in the positive price development. However, we are already striding towards planting for the 2022/23 crop and if the price level holds up, many farmers will be able to take into account and realise the very positive price development for organic cotton.

With the increasing demand for organic cotton, will there ever be “economies of scale” that dampen the price?

The current price structure, in particular the premium, not only compensates for lower yields compared to the cultivation of conventional cotton, but also enables farmers to make a higher profit. This promotes the cultivation of organic cotton tremendously. We continue to see demand as very robust. Only a fraction is currently being satisfied and existing obligations on the part of brands and retailers are consistently enforced.

To what extent there will be economies of scale remains to be seen. Organic cotton cultivation is currently limited to just one percent of global cotton production, so there is still a lot of room for improvement.

Instead of relying on economies of scale, brands and retailers should not see the existing obligations to use sustainably produced cotton as a disadvantage, but as an opportunity. With forecasted purchase quantities and streamlined supply chains, you can reduce the volatility in prices and plan economically for the long term.

How is it possible to increase organic cotton production?

Maximilian Daebel, Vice President of Bremen cotton merchants Otto Stadtlander.© 2021 Bremer Baumwollbörse

Since organic cotton has a lower yield compared to conventional cotton, it is important to support farmers in the transition period (in-conversion). Ideally, this is done with purchase commitments for organic-in-conversion cotton.

There can only be organic growth in organic cotton cultivation if all actors realise the potential and act together: away from decentralised and opportunistic supply chains towards an organised, plannable, and scalable hand-in-hand supply chain.

Some time ago there were reports of fake certificates for organic cotton. Have these problems been solved?

It can be assumed that the problem with forged or duplicate certificates has been brought under control, but scepticism is still appropriate in the supply chain. The multiplication of the premium for organic cotton creates incentives to bypass control mechanisms and bring wrongly declared cotton into circulation.

Fortunately, this problem has been taken up by the organic standards and certifying bodies and the control mechanisms are continuously being refined.

We know the farmers and ginners in our supply chains personally and with regular audits we can recognise irregularities before they take hold and react accordingly together with the certifying bodies. In addition, we subject all the organic cotton we buy to GMO analyses in independent European laboratories.

What developments are there to increase transparency in the organic cotton supply chain?

There are some interesting and promising approaches. One example is the marking of the cotton fibres in the gin. Here, a unique fluorescent “fingerprint” is added to the fibres which remains traceable right through to the end product.

It is then of secondary importance whether the results of the intermediate tests along the supply chain are stored in simple databases or using a blockchain.

Thank you for the interview!

The interviews in the column “Question Time“ embody the opinion of the respective interview partner and do not represent the position of the Bremen Cotton Exchange as neutral, independent institution.

A Powerful Opening: Global thought leaders launch the International Cotton Conference Bremen

The International Cotton Conference Bremen will open on 25 March 2026 in the Parliament building of the Free Hanseatic City of Bremen with a keynote session of exceptional calibre. Distinguished international experts will set the stage for the conference by offering incisive perspectives on the most pressing challenges and the defining trends shaping the future of the global cotton trade. Their insights will span a broad spectrum — from geopolitically driven disruptions affecting global supply chains to the opportunities emerging from innovation-led agriculture capable of supporting a growing world population. Together, these opening keynotes will frame the dialogue of the conference, highlighting both the complexity of today’s market environment and the pathways toward a resilient and forward-looking cotton sector.

Beyond Cotton: Natural Fibres in the Spotlight at the Bremen Cotton Conference - Branded by DNFI

Climate targets, fragile supply chains, and rising regulatory requirements are fundamentally changing the perspective of the textile industry - the focus is increasingly shifting toward the base material. Not only cotton, but natural fibres are gaining significant importance: they stand out not only because of their outstanding functional properties, but also because they make a valuable contribution to the bioeconomy and responsible product development.

Beyond the wardrobe – innovative cotton takes the spotlight

Cotton can do more – a lot more. Cutting-edge textiles and high-tech products made from 100% cotton prove just how powerfully performance and sustainability can come together. That very surge of innovation is front and centre at the 38th Bremen Cotton Conference, taking place March 25–27, 2026, at Bremen’s Parliament on the historic market square – culminating in a bold and dedicated closing session on Friday. In the spotlight: performance upgrades for pure cotton, smart strategies for circular textile waste solutions, and pioneering concepts for demanding technical applications. From natural fibre–reinforced composites to highly effective flame-retardant solutions, cotton steps out of the closet and shows the future potential woven into every fibre.

China projected to increase cotton production, yields, and imports in 2026/27

World cotton production in the 2026/27 season is projected at 25.9 million tonnes, exceeding global consumption of 25.2 million tonnes, according to the May 2026 issue of Cotton This Month. That means both production and consumption are expected to remain close to current season levels, while global cotton trade is projected to decline by 2.7% to approximately 9.6-9.7 million tonnes.

ECCO introduces first shoe featuring innovative protein-based fibre

ECCO, in partnership with Spinnova, announces the launch of the limited edition ECCO BIOM® 720, a first-of-its-kind shoe utilising an often overlooked leather by-product, transformed into a protein-based fibre. The fibres are produced using patented technology that advances material innovation while reducing waste and supporting full resource use across the leather and textile industry.

Techtextil 2026: KARL MAYER impresses as an innovative sector partner

KARL MAYER looks back with satisfaction on its participation in Techtextil 2026. From April 21 to 24, the international industry leader used the trade show in Frankfurt to meet with numerous key customers at its booth and, at the same time, establish many new contacts. Most visitors came from Germany, followed by major markets such as Poland, the United Kingdom, Turkey, France, and Portugal.

BTMA backs global growth while investing in future UK leaders

As one of a number of new initiatives launched this year, the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) is launching the UK-India Textile Machinery Coalition. The UK-India Free Trade Agreement, signed in July 2025, has implications that extend across sourcing, competitiveness and long-term trade dynamics, believes BTMA CEO Jason Kent.

The LYCRA Company strengthens sustainability leadership, appoints Alistair Williamson as VP of Product Sustainability

The LYCRA Company has appointed longtime executive Alistair Williamson as vice president of product sustainability, reaffirming its commitment to developing sustainable solutions for apparel and personal care products. In this role, he will guide the company’s next chapter of sustainability strategy and oversee all initiatives aimed at reducing environmental impact across products, operations, and innovation platforms.