#Dyeing, Drying, Finishing
Significant energy savings for atb with new Thies iMaster dyeing units
Etevimol Knitting Company enjoys an enviable reputation for its high quality knitwear since forming in 1977. Recognising the prime premium of vertical integration, Mário Mano, had by 1988 established atb as a dyeing and finishing sister company to additionally ensure more direct quality control and guarantee faster response times.
Today, not only is atb recognised as Portugal’s leading knitwear dyeing and finishing specialist but, together with Etevimol is producing the latest high quality fashion knitwear fabrics.
Acabamentos Têxteis de Barcelos Lda (atb), considered to be Portugal’s leading dyeing and finishing knitwear specialist, took delivery of its first 200 kg capacity iMaster H²O dyeing unit late last year; and placed an order for two additional 400 kg units.
“We recognised its potential for energy savings immediately and placed an order through the local dealer, Unipessoal Lda, for a further two 400 kg capacity units; both delivered in July,” said director Mário Mano.
Based in Barcelos, the heart of the country’s knitted textile centre near Porto, the company was formed by Mário Mano to offer a more vertical operation for its knitting sister company, Etevimol, producing innovative, high quality knitwear fashion fabrics.
Atb took delivery of its first Thies units in 1985 with the installation of six jet units which remained operational until 1998.
“As part of our on-going modernisation programme, we recognised that we had to improve quality further and become more energy efficient, in order to cut costs; to become more competitive with, for example, our competitors in Asia,” said Mãrio.
He continued, “once the first iMaster had been installed we recognised the unit’s versatility and flexibility, being able to handle the wide range of materials and blends which includes cotton/viscose, polyester/modal, modal/cupro, wool/polyamide, 100% micromodal, 100% microviscose, 100% wool and wool/viscose/linen”
Mãrio also disclosed that for the first time it had completed 600 t of linen for the summer collection.
“It even works with a 95% jersey modal and 5% lycra – not the easiest blend to handle,” said local dealer João Sampaio. “All this has been made possible with the self-cleaning automatic filter; conventionally done manually so now saving both energy and labour costs.”
“We are working at liquor ratios as low as 1:4 and 1:5 which compared with previous norms of 1:7 and 1:8,” said Sales Director, Miguel Domingues. “We are achieving significant savings on utilities such as electricity, steam, water and of course, dyestuffs.”
“Yes, our competitive dyeing units are able to match the Thies iMaster with quality but nowhere near the utilities savings,” added Mário.
In addition to the self-cleaning filter, another plus is the anti-pilling technique for clean surface treatment on very high capacity knitwear.
“For more sensitive articles we tend to use the new Thies unit, particularly with the very lightweight knitted fabrics at 60-100 gm/m2 and for those with viscose blends,” said Mário’s son Ricardo.
The reduced tension on knitted goods for these lightweight knits is achieved with the iMasters new winch technology.”
Pic: Samples of fabrics made by atb
Atb initially started as a commission dyer but changed around 2006 with its own collection - such that its own production today accounts for 85 – 90%; exporting around 87%.
“Many of our first commission customers are still with us today. We enjoy this tradition; they are all valued customers,” concluded Mário.
